Sunday, August 28, 2011

The Dharmalingeshwarar Mountaintop Temple, Madukkarai

In Tamil, கி means "Ki" or "Si", and வ means "Va". Together, கிவ reads as Siva, or as His name is also spelled, Shiva. He is one of the three most important Gods in Hinduism and has temples dedicated to Him all over India. Yesterday, two of my friends took me to a stunning temple dedicated to Siva on a mountain in the Western Ghats on the border of the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerela. This temple falls inside the area that I study for work, so I have often admired it from afar. I thought it was called the Siva Siva temple because of this sign on top, which glows with in bright red neon lights by night. However, after a little research, I found out the proper name is the Dharmalingeshwarar Temple, and it has apparently been around in one form or another since the 7th century. I must admit one of the the most impressive and incredible things about India from the eyes of a westerner is how ancient this place and culture is.
Unlike most temples, you have to earn your way to this one. It is about a 400 foot climb up very steep stairs to the top, and we had full sun on us for the way up. Thankfully, there are four shaded areas to sit along the way, so you can give yourself a rest before continuing the climb. The stairs are often literally cut out of the mountain, and this adds to the mix of man and nature that defined this place for me.
Once we neared the top, we removed our shoes (customary in Hindu temples) and finished the climb. All I can say of the top is that it was breathtaking (and not from the climb). The view was incredible and being welcomed in a sacred temple is a humbling and empowering experience all at once.
After lingering for a while, watching the clouds move over the mountains from west in Kerela, it became clear rains were coming eastwards, toward us. We figured the hike down could get treacherous on wet rocks so we reluctantly headed down. About halfway down it started to rain quite heavily, but thankfully it lasted only briefly. The reward for this was incredible though, a double rainbow, all the way. I knew what it meant- it was our reward for being adventurous and rolling with it despite the rain. Have I mentioned I love India? Thanks S & V!
Here's a view of the path up to the temple from the bottom. You can see several of the rest areas along the way and the neon sign at the top
One of the colorful and much-needed rest areas
Here's the rainbow!
I got soaking wet and my Tilak (red dot) started to run but the rainbow made it all worthwhile!

The entrance to the temple from the road


Taking in the view
The mighty Western Ghats
The temple at the top- no pics allowed inside!!!

10 comments:

  1. Hey Greg,

    Its always interesting to read a westerner's view on temples. I am planning to go there sometime soon. I have been seeing the temple from below and always wanted to go, your experience just made me want to go there all the more.

    And one small correction, 'சி' is for si, and 'கி' is for ki. Its not the same letter for both the pronunciation. Siva Siva is spelled as சிவ சிவ as you would be able to see in the picture.

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  2. Thanks for the correction, CV! As you can tell, I am far from being a master of the Tamil language :) I highly recommend you make the trek to the top- the view is divine!

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  3. hi greg,

    did u get information more about that temple??? its existence since when.. any mythical stories behind this temple???

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  4. ya it was made by dharman one among the panja pandavas and below it bheem is there to protect them

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  5. myself with family and ashwin will be there on mahashivaratri festival on 27-feb 2014

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  6. We went to the temple on 12-02-14 (for Pradosham).

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  7. wow.. awesome, Greg :D I even after being a girl Kerala, never got a chance to visit this temple :/ i have always looked at this temple from train whenever i passed through that way :( and thank to u for the description and pictures :) unfortunately google doesn't provide much pictures of this temple.

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  8. Sangeetha Temple had own facebook page

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  9. Nice climb...800+ steps some shallow but most of them fairly steep... the constant breeze helps against the sun.. clean and serene for a peaceful
    outing...no footwear which could be hard on feet on a hot day..so an early start is a good idea...

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  10. I too went drawn by the sheer natural beauty of the place . It was an awesome experience.

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